There really is no easy solution to it. Unlike in other ela⦠It never hurts, though. My shower project is coming along (slowly but surely), but I have a question regarding one of my walls. You can also use KERDI-FIX to waterproof where the tub spout comes through the KERDI-BOARD. « Reply #1 on: May 29, 2018, 12:33:28 pm » You can never tell, but the absence of a earth connection & wrist strap connection would indicate that the mat has not been properly designed to create an ESD workstation. Shop GE Tub and Tile Silicone 1 10.1-oz White Silicone Caulk in the Caulk department at Lowe's.com. For those areas thin set or Kerdi-fix are recommended. Size would not accommodate a prefab pan. Have a few others that did not last near as long. Hey Roger, just bought your kerdi bundle and read the kerdi book top to bottom. What do you think about Kirdifix? I assume thinset and screws to fasten? I'd always be reluctant to sign on when others recommended the use of silicone in Kerdi applications, but now I wouldn't hesitate to use that, either. I always use backer rod if I want a sealant to stay put. Apply KERDI-FIX to the substrate and spread evenly with an appropriate notched trowel. Do I absolutely need to use kerdi fix around the mixing valve and tub flange or can I use 100% silicone? good luck getting that ostrich saddle off your hands…. Roger, And youmight not be able to use the enclosure again for a w⦠You gotta like my page. 100% silicone will perform better than âextendedâ. Okay, don’t slam it up there, place it up there carefully and press firmly to ensure full contact. Because I’m a slacker. It will just back up and eventually (over the years) saturate the substrate! No water is going to get into that 3/8″ radius, nor through the front of the escutcheon. Click here to get an instruction manual for your waterproofing installation. Can you just silicone the part where the cement board meets the drywall Instead of taping? :shrug: It would depend. :eek: I can assure you I don't keep ice in it unless I have to :wave:, but it is always half full of water. This creates the same waterproof dam on the backside of your substrate as well. It seems that your method above is perfect for this type of installation, but before I go hacking this together, I just want to confirm that this is the correct course of action. I have a drain clean out from the kitchen sink on the main floor that’s at the base of my basement shower. Professional Tile Installation Contractor Fort Collins and all of Northern Colorado. Mike - Thanks for the response. I tuck the plastic behind the drywall or cut it right at the drywall. Curing silicone basically means letting it dry. Moen states in their instructions to keep the plaster ground in place during installation of the trim and that it should sit flush with the finished tile. Click Above to have professional TileTips sent directly to your inbox. I understand how to seal the pipes and mixing valves, but what about the ‘other’ valve openings (I’m using a hansgrohe thermostatic valve, and have three other valve openings for the shower head, hand shower, and rain shower). There's is an epoxy offered by a competitor that works OK. Once of our clients gave the The product is really only part of it, the application is just as important. You still need waterproofing over the backer above the fiberglass, but nothing is needed over where the fiberglass is. Sticks like crazy. You have no idea the headache you just solved. JB even water tested one within city limits to fulfill a building code check list. :). I’ve used mapei’s aquadefense. I’ll have to get you a six pack for this probably…two beers isn’t enough. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge with us. I have one question though which I’m unclear about. This ensures the fleece will be 100% covered in thin-set. It will not be technically waterproof until you install the silicone and tile. Unlike some adhesives, silicone sealants must cure. If your hole spans two or more tiles then the technique is the same, but you should have two beers Pepsis. They are meant to discard. That and seeing the condensate on the plastic with our open wall cavities in the training areas when using liquids is what has made me a strong believer in sheet products and using felt. There are only 2 places I worry about with Kerdi and sheetrock. Certified by NSF to NSF / ANSI Standard #51.Safe for incidental food contact. No, you do not. I've used a lot of Kerdi fix for its intended purpose of sealing membranes and fixtures, and have never tried to caulk a tub surround with it. Okay, so you have the back side of the tile sealed with silicon so the water runs down the back side, around the hole, and in to the tub. Using the flat side of the trowel, firmly press the banding into the mortar to ensure 100% coverage and to remove excess mortar and air pockets. Never tried that one, used Vulcum, Bostic, Dow, Precora, and Sonoborne. Or am I just supposed to wait to do any waterproofing for those holes until I apply the tiles? But yes, it will work for your situation as well. Then I will apply redguard to it? Embed the KERDI in the KERDI-FIX and work the membrane onto the substrate to ensure full coverage and remove air pockets. I have plenty of room under the floor to access the drain and pipes there….what I’m curious about is an idea of simply adding a second drain into the floor. I am wondering what I should do before I even get to the tiling part. 100% silicone products are not paintable. As an example, the popular silicone sold in hardware stores is GE012A (aka GE 1) which contains Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (aka D4). Silicone caulk is expensive but worth the cost due to its flexibility and long life. The valve manufacturer supplied the typical plastic placeholder/spacer that temporarily attaches to the valve and protrudes through the substrate. :D. I'm thinking of taking the mud course in march, maybe i'll do it just so's i can say i drunk sumthin outa that box :yipee: GabeS I like to bring the board down to the lip and the tile down past the edge of the board to the tub. 8.1 Schlüter®-KERDI W A T E R P R O O F M E M B R A N E F O R S U B S T R A T E P R O T E C T I O N Application and Function Schlüter®-KERDI is a crack bridging water- proof membrane made of soft polyethylene, OK, but what about the silicone dam behind the tile? 3. Do you leave it sticking out from below the backerboard and over the edge of the drywall? I feel like I keep finding out things I should have done differently after it’s a bit too late. I know I can use silicone around the opening behind the tile so water behind the tile can wick around it, but how do I prevent water from getting behind the substrate? It is a Mildew resistant 30 minutes shower ready caulk. It probably had that 5% or worse of D4. After using the Kerdi Fix from Schluter that is my favorite adhesive type silicone for wet applications and where white is OK (since I think that is the only color it comes in). So the thought is to simply add a second drain where the first one SHOULD have been in the first place. :). When you comb thinset onto the substrate you want to scrape away the area around where the hole in the tile is. They wish I would. Do you trim it and where does the edge go relative to the flooring – presumably not below (in this case the drywall was already removed for the legs, so we put backerboard there.). They will not suggest its use for primary seaming or for areas that might be constantly wet. Nice looking job though Steve. I am getting ready to apply thinset and mesh tape to all the seams. I plan to use a moentrol 3330 Three Function mixing and transfer valve, and of course, the kerdi mixing valve gasket is not big enough. However, once you get those installed the only way water can get into them is to fly sideways – it doesn’t do that. If you get enough silicone on there you’ll be able to run your finger along the perimeter of the cutout after you install your tile to smooth the silicone. As I have a brand new tube of the stuff. Keep silicone patches on your skin from 1-8 hours. They will not suggest its use for primary seaming or for areas that might be constantly wet. So how do you waterproof a hole? Roger, I normally just cut slits in the barrier in the stud bays. and runs down the wall, it will run around the bead of silicone and continue down the wall into the tub or shower base and into the drain. OK, maybe you need more info. The lowest portion of the floor is about 6″ further in than the drain, so in order for all the water to be out of the shower at the end of the day, one has to squeegee it toward the drain. If it’s at the base of the wall water will get to it. and for bonding to glass and plastic. Adding a second drain and tying it into the existing membrane would require at least partially removing floor tile, doing all that, then replacing deck mud and floor tile. Have a beer Pepsi to congratulate yourself for such a fine looking circle! In addition, silicones have more special properties than normal rubbers. Just grab a tube of silicone and stop overthinking it! Yes, you can. Favored the Bostic. Maybe I’m just not understanding your concern correctly? Alas, I have one final question. I just want it to last a long time. Schluter Kerdi fix was recommended earlier in the thread. You can silicone between the tile and backer around the hole, but there’s no need to tear tile out to do it. 4. Nope, use it. 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